This is Ramallah

The second chapter focuses on Barghouti’s first morning in Ramallah after 30 years of exile. He is struck by the changes in the city, particularly the sight of Israeli settlements overlooking Ramallah. Politics intrudes immediately into his reunion with the homeland, represented by the settlement on Jabal al-Tawil, casting a shadow on his attempt to reconnect with the place of his childhood. His return to Ramallah is filled with mixed emotions: joy, nostalgia, and the lingering burden of displacement. He questions why his joy needs to be coaxed, realizing that it is incomplete because of the lasting scars of occupation and exile.

Barghouti walks through Ramallah, retracing his childhood steps, visiting familiar places like his old school and various neighborhoods. However, he is constantly haunted by the memory of his older brother Mounif, who died in exile, never allowed to return to Palestine. Barghouti reflects on the role of the eldest son in Palestinian families, burdened with responsibility from a young age, forced to provide for and protect their family. The tragic death of Mounif represents the pain of a generation that could not return to its homeland, adding a layer of grief to Barghouti’s return.

Barghouti’s observations are detailed, recalling the sounds, smells, and sights of Ramallah’s streets. Yet, there is a pervasive sadness that accompanies his every step, as the city is now dominated by the presence of the Israeli occupation. He describes the changes in Ramallah’s landscape, both physical and cultural. Despite the familiar, much has shifted under the weight of the occupation, symbolizing the loss of normalcy for Palestinians.

The chapter intertwines personal memories with political reality, especially through the lens of Barghouti’s poetic reflections. He sees the Palestinian struggle not just as a political conflict but a deeply personal loss. He contrasts Ramallah’s past—its celebrations, protests, and youthful spirit—with its present reality under occupation. The chapter ends with Barghouti preparing to visit Deir Ghassanah, his ancestral village, where he hopes to reconnect further with his roots. Barghouti’s journey through Ramallah is not just physical but deeply introspective, filled with reflections on identity, memory, and loss.