I Saw Ramallah: Chapter 6

 


 Uncle Daddy

This chapter delves into Mourid Barghouti’s experiences of displacement, family dynamics, and the complexities of Palestinian exile. It highlights both personal and collective stories of Palestinians, with a focus on the effects of the Israeli occupation and the Oslo Accords. Barghouti begins by visiting the family house in Deir Ghassanah with his cousin Abu Hazem. They encounter a tenant who expresses suspicion at their interest in the house. This interaction reveals the deep-seated mistrust that has developed due to the Israeli occupation. Barghouti reflects on how Palestinians in the diaspora entrusted their homes and lands to relatives to prevent confiscation by the Israeli authorities. However, in some cases, these caretakers have taken advantage of the situation and claimed ownership of the property, highlighting the tensions between absent owners and resident caretakers.

Barghouti and his friends joke about writing a play based on the tragicomic stories of returnees who discover their properties are no longer theirs. The humorous conversation turns dark as they imagine escalating conflicts over land, leading to absurd and violent outcomes. This chapter captures the bitterness and frustration that accompany the return to Palestine under occupation, as well as the coping mechanism of humor to deal with the harsh realities of life. The chapter also reflects on the personal losses Barghouti has endured due to war and exile. He recounts the death of his cousin Fahim during the Lebanese Civil War and the impact of this tragedy on the family. Barghouti reflects on how war creates a disconnection between those who remain in the homeland and those in exile. He vividly describes receiving the news of Fahim’s death while living in the United States, underscoring the emotional toll of being far away from loved ones during times of crisis.

Barghouti spends time with his extended family and old friends, recalling the bonds that tie them together despite years of separation. He discusses the role of women in the Palestinian struggle, particularly his cousin Umm Khalil, who had even run for the presidency of the Palestinian Authority. He visits the Society for the Support of the Family, an organization led by Umm Khalil, which provides work and support for the families of martyrs, detainees, and prisoners. This section highlights the resilience and determination of Palestinian women in sustaining their communities during times of hardship. Barghouti contrasts the Ramallah of his youth with the modern city of the 1990s, noting the changes brought about by Israeli occupation and the Palestinian Authority. He observes the rise of high-rise buildings and the loss of green spaces, reflecting on how urban development has altered the character of the city. Despite the physical changes, Barghouti finds solace in the city’s enduring sense of community, particularly its blending of Christian and Muslim tradition.

The chapter delves into the political situation following the Oslo Accords. Barghouti is critical of how the Palestinian Authority, established as part of the accords, has become disconnected from the people it is supposed to represent. He notes the increasing materialism and corruption among Palestinian officials, exemplified by their use of mobile phones and luxury cars, which alienate ordinary citizens. Barghouti contrasts the idealism of the Palestinian struggle with the compromises and disillusionment that have followed Oslo, capturing the tension between hope and reality. The chapter ends with personal reflections on Barghouti’s life in exile and the challenge of maintaining a sense of identity. He recounts his complicated relationship with his son Tamim, who was born in Cairo and grew up separated from his father due to Barghouti’s deportation from Egypt. The poignant moment when Tamim calls him “Uncle Daddy” encapsulates the emotional distance that exile imposes on family relationships. Barghouti reflects on the absurdity and tragedy of displacement, where even familial bonds are strained by political forces. In this chapter, Barghouti weaves together personal memories, political critique, and reflections on the Palestinian experience of exile. His narrative is filled with a sense of loss—of land, family, and identity—but also resilience, as he continues to navigate life under occupation and in the diaspora. The chapter captures the complexity of Palestinian identity, shaped by both historical trauma and the ongoing struggle for self-determination.

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